Old Grey Goose International : Israel Journal

Thursday, July 3, 2008 - Day Three

Our first performance of the day was a return to the Arab-Jewish Community Center in Yaffo. We performed twice, doing workshops for about 20 English campers each session. Their whole day was dedicated to music and dance, so our program fit in perfectly. It was great to see the Arab and Jewish children interacting so seamlessly. They clapped and sang along, and were enthusiastic dancers during the line and circle dances we called. The younger group (10-11) was less inhibited about physical contact with the opposite sex than was the slightly older group (12-13).

It was a good time and we left full of energy.

We had a fairly quick turnaround at the hotel because of the anticipated security at the Ambassador’s residence for his 4th of July party. This was a huge affair, with more than 2,000 guests expected. A highlight was that Israeli President Shimon Peres and Prime Minister Ehud Olmert would be attending and speaking.

We drove to the outskirts of Tel Aviv to a very wealthy area called Herzliya Pituach. This neighborhood consists of walled villas on the Mediterranean. Danny said that the land alone (perhaps one acre) for the Ambassador’s residence cost $27 million.

Security was understandably tight. Very serious female security guards swabbed our hands and all our equipment and tested them for gunpowder residue. Instruments were put through the x-ray machines without their cases. Each of us was asked whether we were carrying a weapon before walking through the metal detector. When Jeff’s accordion was out of the case and we were waiting in line, Matt went to push one of the buttons and was stopped from doing so—just in case it was a detonator. Bomb sniffing dogs and rooftop snipers were part of the scene.

So was McDonalds, Dominoes Pizza, Crocs (footwear), Pepsi and, yes, even Hooters—all sponsors of the event. Food was everywhere—traditional Middle Eastern fare as well as American, Indian and Kosher. Only beer, water and soda were served for beverages.

We were shown to our “green room” which we had to share with the Yale Women’s a cappella chorus (tough duty). The women are graduated seniors on an around-the-world tour. We were told that an important meeting with the prime minister and ambassador would be taking place in the room next door.

We did a sound check on a stage overlooking the sea. It was a spectacular, if very hot, day and there was a sea breeze keeping it bearable. Thankfully, our dressing room was air conditioned because we had several hours to wait before performing.

We played on the main stage from 6:45 p.m. until 8:00 p.m. when the program began. The audience was told to turn off cell phones and not to move from where they were standing while the dignitaries took the stage (think security….)

The Yale women (about ten in number) did a beautiful job singing the American national anthem. But even more moving was when they sang the Israeli anthem and nearly everyone in the crowd sang along very quietly and proudly. Several around me nodded their heads in approval at the end—a testament to the quality of the singers’ delivery.

The first speaker was Ambassador Richard H. Jones—a career diplomat and four-time Ambassador who will be leaving the diplomatic service next week for a job in Paris as an energy consultant. He spoke of the strong support and close ties among the two countries and asked all present to support the peace process and what I later learned is referred to as the Annapolis process—creation of a homeland for Palestinians. He also said that over the next ten years, the U.S. has committed $33 billion to Israel for the purchase of arms.

Shimon Peres spoke next and was very impressive. At age 84 he has been a significant figure in world and, of course, Israeli life and politics. He, too, spoke of the need for peace and security and underlined the close ties with the U.S. He said a democracy must be judged not for its value, but for its values.

Ehud Olmert was the final speaker. He said he had spoken to President Bush the previous day who reiterated his support for the State of Israel. Bush is a hero here among the vast majority of Israelis and was treated as such during his recent visit.

Olmert is currently under investigation for taking bribes from the American Talansky. He said he will resign if it is proven. No one with whom I spoke is sure what sort of influence Talansky may have been trying to buy.

We played for another hour or so after the speeches, ending when it was time for the fireworks. These were pretty spectacular. Andy introduced us to the Ambassador whom we thanked for the opportunity to come to Israel.

We left the residence for Andy’s house where we had champagne, hummus, cheese and meats. Lynn was there, having stepped out of retirement for a month to work at the consulate in Jerusalem.

At our request, Andy and Lynn brought out maps of Israel and explained more of the complex wars, land issues, and philosophical debates that render any easy solutions in this part of the world impossible.

Andy, whose father was a Jewish refugee from Sejney, Poland (where we played a few years ago), moved to Israel last year from his previous post in Paris. Upon arrival, he mentioned to his Israeli cousin that having just come from France it would be a pleasure to be in a country that considered itself friendly with the U.S. His cousin, a peace proponent, replied, “The U.S. is no friend to Israel. A real friend would not let us get away with what we do.”

He was referring to the way Palestinians are treated in Israel—a situation that former President Jimmy Carter (not popular here) has termed “apartheid.”

We left around midnight, and got stuck in traffic for about two hours. It turns out that UNESCO has deemed Tel Aviv one of the world’s cultural “White Cities,” and there is an annual “White Night” that brings thousand of people into the streets for free entertainment. More than sixty venues were offering free music, the museums and restaurants were open, and the streets and beaches were packed with pedestrians. Danny said that it was too bad CNN only focuses on terrorism and not the vibrant life of the Israelis.

Perhaps it’s our age (well, not Matt’s…), but by the time we got to the hotel at 2:00 a.m., despite the beckoning night life, we were ready for bed!

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